Sources of dye in India

Sources of dye in India*

Red:

Indian madder, Rubia cordiofolia – Manjistha, mordant dye for which the use of alum was prevalent. ^{1 2}

Mallotus phillippinensis – Kampillaka, Kampilla (northwest province), no mordant required, yellow until alkaline carbonates or caustic alkalies are applied. “without mordant it does not produce good colour to the silk or cotton fabric.” ¹

Oldenlandia – Parpata or jatuka or parpati, Oldenlandia herbacea or Oldenlandia umbellata ^{1 2}

Lac – laksa Coccidae. Insect dye. Also used as a cosmetic ^{1 2}

Kermes – krimi, Kermoccus vermilia formally Coccus iliciscoccidae.Insect dye. Combine with alum to produce scarlet. ¹

Conchineal – indragopaka, Coccus cacti. Insect dye. ¹

Red ochre – gairika ¹, geru ²

Red lead – sindura ¹

Achu – Morinda citrifolia ²

Red yellow:

Carthamus tinctorius – kusumbha, Safflower, known as the plant of Gujarat. Produces red and yellow dye. Red dye is soluble in alkaline water and known as carthamic acid. ^{1  2}

Crocus sativus – kunkuma, Saffron. Dye and cosmetic. ¹

Sappon wood –Caesalpinia sappan, bakam  ² or patanga or pattanga  ¹. Wood powder was dissolved in water with alum. ¹

Realgar - manahsila ¹

Yellow:

Tumeric – Haridra ¹, Hadi ² Curcuma longa. Also used to make blueish yellow. ¹

Kamala gundi – Mallotus philippinensis (Orissa).

Blue:

Indigo – Nila, Nili, Nilika, Indigofera tinctoria. Water soluable and fast. ¹

Indigo – Strobilanthes flaccidifolia  ²

Black:

Lamp Black – Khanjana, Kajjala. Mix with water, gum winba water (azadirachta). ¹

Alum mordant and iron ²

Other chemicals mentioned:

Natron – svarjika ¹

Lime – curna ¹

Salt of Potash – Kaca salt ¹

Alum - tuvari ¹

*Dyes in Ancient and Medieval India refers to the ‘late medieval period (eighteenth century A.D)’ so caution has been used when determining if dyes would be considered period

References:

1 – Dyes in Ancient and Medieval India. Mira Roy. 1977. Annotated Bibliography of Indian Medicine. Vol 13, No. 2.    Link - http://www.new1.dli.ernet.in/data1/upload/insa/INSA_1/20005af9_83.pdf

2 – Indian ikat textiles. Rosemary Crill. 1998. V&A Publications. ISBN: 1851772421